Thursday, 6 March 2014

7 Must have tools for automotive diy projects



When it comes to diy projects, the first and most important thing for a diyer to have is a GOOD set of tools. Some have the ingenuity to use a limited number of tools for a multitude of purposes. But for the simple man there some basic tools that must be at hand all the time.

1: Screw Driver Set: A magnetic screw driver set comes in handy from opening a door handle to dismantling an engine. So it is a must have for a rookie diy enthusiast.
2: Torque Wrenches: Almost all parts of a car are held together by nuts and bolts of different shapes and sizes. A normal set of wrenches although good for unscrewing nuts but it makes the task very laboursome , So to save yourself the hassle get a nice set of torque wrenches.
3: Jack stands: Jack stands come in very handy when working with the underbody of the car, not only do they provide a stable lift and make sure that the vehicle doesn’t fall over ,they also provide a good clearance to work underneath the car.
4: WD 40: The only thing that WD 40 cannot do is bring a dead man back to life. Any other problems and it comes in handy .Wd 40 sprays must always be available when working on your car because they will help you in removing jammed parts and nuts, freeing  jammed/clogged mechanisms and for overall lubrication of moving parts.
5: Soldering iron: Soldering irons can save you a fair bit of cash when working with the electrical bits of the car. Heat shrink and tape is also necessary for working with the electrical parts.
6: Pliers and Cutter set: A pliers and cutter set comes in handy in almost every types of job. A good pliers and cutter set doesn’t cost much and is very helpful for prying off parts, cutting wires/pipes, straightening sheet metal and bent screws and taking off rivets.
7: Miscellaneuos Bits: Various small items are very useful in diy projects, small items such as ,extra wires, rivets, pipe fasteners and clips ,fly clips, plumbing tape, grease and glue may come in very handy when fixing up your ride.

Sunday, 1 December 2013

RIP Paul Walker

A great artist and a gem of a person,Respect Paul Walker and RIP..
Our Heart goes out to Paul's friends and family.
rip paul walker

Thursday, 25 July 2013

DIY Car Modifications: Strut Tower Bars

DIY Car Modifications: Strut Tower Bars: A strut tower bar (brace) (STB) is an aftermarket accessory for the suspension on a uni-body vehicle. The strut tower itself on these ve...

Saturday, 9 February 2013

How to Smoke Headlights

Procedure

The lenses on a Civic are glass, so you will not need extra sheets for the oven to put them on. Start by removing all five metal clips around each headlight, along with all of the outside screws that were removed when removing the headlights from the car. After the metal pieces are removed from the headlight, pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Heat the headlights for about 5 minutes, then pull them out of the oven and use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the lens off of the headlight assembly. If the pieces feel difficult to pry apart, place the assembly back in the oven for a few more minutes until the glue has loosened up.
There is one reflector on the inside of the assembly that is held on by two screws. The reflector will need to be unscrewed and removed before going any further.
 

Painting Process

Start by masking off the other reflectors on the inside that cannot be removed. Failure to do so will leave you unable to see in the dark after you are finished. After you have completed masking the remaining reflectors, you can begin painting. The preferred paint to perform this job is a black, high-gloss spray paint, however, any color in a high gloss will work. Begin by spraying one even layer over the entire interior of the headlight and continue to go over it until you have a nice, thick paint job.

Re-Assembly

After letting the paint on the headlights dry (usually 2 to 3 hours), apply silicone on the outside of the lens where the glue previously held it to the headlight interior. Once again pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees and place the assembly in the oven for 5 to 7 minutes until the silicone softens. Letting the silicone soften will allow it to spread out more. After letting both headlights sit in a cool place for 5 to 6 hours, the silicone will harden and more easily lock the two pieces back together.
Reattach the five clips to their spots on the outside of the headlight assembly.
When you are done reinstalling your headlights, you will have modified them to a thing of beauty. Congratulations.


Wednesday, 19 December 2012

How To Install an aftermarket steering wheel.

Have a new aftermarket wheel in your room you want to install, but don't know exactly how? Watch, Read, and Learn.

1. Locate steering wheel.


2. Take your small screwdriver and pop the H emblem off the wheel.


3. Locate the steering wheel nut. 19mm or 13/16".


4. Find the appropriate socket/extention


5. Zip it out with an impact gun if you've got one. The reason I say use this is because you don't have to worry about the wheel moving very much as you rip the nut off, as opposed to useing a hand-powered ratchet.


6. If the nut doesnt come out in the socket, it'll just sit there like yay:


7. Then go ahead and pull the wheel off.


8. *edited* nvm.


9. Slip on the new hub.


10. Bolt down the new steering wheel nut. Connect your horn wire, etc and line up the wheel.
*Note*. When you slide the new hub in, hold the steering wheel up to it(with the wheel in the appropriate position(i.e. vertical) and see if the hub is on right. look at your tires. make sure it's straight unless you wanna live with a crooked wheel...


11. After you've lined up the screw holes on the wheel/hub, and have made sure the hub, wheel, and screws are correctly lined up.


And there you have it. Youv'e completed your wheel install. Good for you! Now your car is more jDm than ever.


Look how much smaller my newly installed wheel is. FYI it's a 11" wheel.



Before:


After

Chassis reinforcement DIY

This is an old trick a lot of Japanese tuning companies use to stiffen the chassis of their circuit/ race cars... I'm gonna show you how to do it...

First is the list of things you'll need...

1: drill ( i prefer an electric with a cord other then one with a battery just to i don't need to worry about it dying on me)

2: ball-pen hammer (or any other hammer with a metal head)

3: center-punch (to mark a good start point for the drill)

4: drill bits ( i prefer a cobalt (the material of the bit not the lowes brand) drill bit because they last longer don't go cheap on this one or you'll know it

5: rivet gun (blind rivet fastener rivet tool..etc)

6: appropriate size rivet *** SEE NOTE *** ( i used short 3/16ths (#6) size they make steel and aluminum and some others i chose aluminum because its lighter)

after your interior is out the first thing to do is find the spot wields in the chassis



use a center punch and a hammer to make a divet between them..





drill a hole that is the same size diameter as the rivet you are using (keep in mind what could possibly be behind the metal like suspension, tires, etc don't drill into anything you need)







place the rivet inside the hole.. it should be a little snug



then use the rivet gun to expand the rivet until the end breaks off..(be careful as sometimes the end will shoot out of the back of the gun (not often but it can happen)



make sure that you press the head of the rivet flush against the metal



once the end breaks off you're done and ready to repeat until you are satisfied... also should mention that you should use a rivet slightly longer then the thickness of the metals you are joining together ( i used ones with a 1/4 inch grip length on all of mine because i don't think its important enough to measure each hole



what it should look like when finished (well kinda my bit isn't sharp enough to drill any more holes lol )


*** NOTE***

good point i should've mentioned this ONLY USE CHERRY MAX/ CHERRY LOCK RIVETS the other ones don't really do anything but hold things together.. they are hollow in the center when you are done with them and are not for anything structural


for sake of time and his post the rivets i used were pop rivets.. here is a comparison of the right (cherry max) rivet and the wrong (pop) rivet to use

the cherry max is the rivet on the left and correct one to use... don't use one like the one on the right